The Ethicurean Cookbook Review
Phaidon, Out Now
It sounds almost too good to be true – a garden, surrounded by a wall, deep in the heart of Somerset, with space to create one of the most talked about restaurants in South West and beyond in the last few years. Add to that the fact this has been done by four friends – could it get anymore perfect?
The Ethicurean is the restaurant you always wanted to open yourself but never got around to it – fruit, vegetable and herbs all direct from your own garden, meaning you only cook what is available right now – zero food miles, total confidence in the provenance of your product, direct to you kitchen.
Then – when you open your award-winning restaurant, the next thing to do is obviously to launch your very own book documenting the whole thing – and voila, The Ethicurean Cook Book is born… and what a beautiful book it is too.
The beauty of it doesn’t rest on just the pictures – even though they are stunning and make you want to cook the dishes even more, if that were possible. No, the beauty is that the whole package is so inspirational and aspirational – at least for Marsala Rama it is. Add to that the fact that the recipes are achievable with ingredients that you actually recognize and can get hold of, no problem - fab.
Marsala Rama favourites include the tandoori scallops with celeriac and samphire, confit of rabbit with lovage as well as roe deer with wood sorrel. Star of the show has to be the carpaccio of beetroot – as good a food pic as you’ll ever see and an exciting dish to create and scoff.
As the year comes to an end (yes, we are late to the Somerset party) it seems that every foodie man and his dog agree – from The Telegraph, to The Observer Monthly, to The Food Programme on Radio Four - this is truly one of the best cookbooks of 2013 and the restaurant itself truly entrenched in Marsala Rama’s Wish List of Restaurants to visit in 2014.
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